In Paraty, flour houses are both workspaces and gathering places. Around the oven, neighbors, family, and friends come together for work that is hard but rewarding. Locally made flour is a source of pride — this “white gold” is a staple at breakfast, lunch, and dinner for many in Paraty.

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Flour production begins in the field, with the cassava harvest. Even before sunrise, the roots are pulled from the ground along with the whole plant and gathered into taquaraçu baskets. They are then carried on shoulders, on the backs of mules, or by cart — depending on scale, distance, and access. Usually, part of the cassava is harvested from the producer’s own plot, and part comes from other farmers in the region.

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At the flour house, the first step is peeling the cassava. The motorized washer — a steel drum with internal grooves — removes dirt and peel as it spins. Each root is then checked by hand. Once clean, the cassava is grated. In the past, grating required a hand crank or water wheel. Today, the grating cylinders are made of metal, run on a motor, and drop the pulp into a hollowed-out wooden trough.

The next step is pressing. Many farmers still use the tipiti or tapiti — a traditional Indigenous basket used to squeeze the cassava pulp. Here, it’s used along with a spindle press, a spiral-shaped shaft turned by a lever that presses the mass. The liquid drains into another wooden trough. These days, more and more producers are using modern hydraulic presses. The principle is the same: extract the liquid, leave the pulp dry.

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Next, the pulp goes into the sieve — which can be made of bamboo or steel. The mesh size varies: some prefer a very fine flour, others like it coarser. After sieving, the pulp goes back into the trough and then on to the oven.

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The oven is made of stone, clay, and lime, with a built-in copper pan. It's fired with wood. The secret is to stir the flour constantly using a custom-made wooden paddle. Sometimes, two people stand facing each other and take turns. When tired, one may sit beside the oven and keep stirring. Between batches, the cardiar — a mix of hot and raw flour — is made and returned to the fire. It prevents clumping and ensures even toasting.

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At the end, the flour is bagged. A bit of the pulp is set aside to make beiju (cassava flatbread), which is baked on a copper griddle or a banana leaf and can be prepared with salt, coconut, or butter.